Autumn perfume wardrobe: which fragrances to choose for the new season

Tom Ford: New Summer Makeup Collection

Розыгрыш эксклюзивного бокса Creed в Code de Vie Keruen Astana

The new SPF culture and why it is changing the way we care for our skin

The ultimate guide to  Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle perfumes

10870

Especially for everyone who, like us, is hopelessly in love with the compositions of Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle, we have created a guide to the brand&rsquo;s selected creations, grouping them by perfumers and chronology. The character and key notes are described so vividly that you&rsquo;ll almost smell them in the air, feel the urge to try them on yourself, and share fascinating facts with those around you. Embark on this olfactory journey with confidence: one Publishing house, 14 perfumers, 30 fragrances &mdash; from the Code De Vie selection.

Anne Flipo
&nbsp;
One of the few women in the pantheon of great modern perfumers, Flipo has a nose with an impeccable academic education at Versailles and a rare ability to work with green, herbal, and plant materials so that they sound not like a herbarium, but like living nature in motion. She created fragrances for Giorgio Armani and Lanc&ocirc;me, but with Fr&eacute;d&eacute;ric Malle, she stepped out of the shadows and put her name on the bottle.

Парфюмерная вода Synthetic Nature, 50 мл

Synthetic Nature (formerly Synthetic Jungle) 2021
&nbsp;
For those who love the green and herbal scents of the 1970s but desire a more contemporary approach.
&nbsp;
Anne Flipo challenges the traditional dichotomy in perfumery: natural versus synthetic. Her scent demonstrates this false dichotomy. Synthetic molecules are neither an imitation of nature nor its opposite, but a different way of saying the same thing. Basil from the lab and basil from the garden evoke the same memory&mdash;a garden after a rain. Flipo doesn't choose between them. She uses both to get to the essence. The fragrance was originally released under the name Synthetic Jungle, but in 2024 it was renamed Synthetic Nature without changing the formula. Frederic Malle noted that the new name more accurately reflects the essence. Synthetic Nature is a modern homage to the iconic green perfumes of the 1970s&mdash;an era when scents were almost indecent in their boldness. Basil here is not a culinary spice, but a sharp green note with an almost metallic breath. It opens the fragrance sharply, like an open door to a garden after rain. Lily of the valley and blackcurrant follow, adding a cool sweetness and berry sparkle to the composition. The heart is sunny jasmine. Flipo doesn't dilute it with a bouquet&mdash;she lets it shine in its full strength. Patchouli in the base adds an earthy, resinous depth, preventing the fragrance from becoming simply beautiful.

&nbsp;
Bruno Jovanovic
&nbsp;
Serbian by birth, Parisian by birth, and an orientalist by spirit, Jovanovic is an IFF perfumer who has worked for major brands such as Hugo Boss, Coach, Paco Rabanne, Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, and Armani. His style is oriental luxury, heavy masculine scents that you can almost smell on yourself. For Fr&eacute;d&eacute;ric Malle, he created a single fragrance&mdash;one that is unmistakable.

Парфюмерная вода Monsieur., 50 мл

Monsieur, 2015
&nbsp;
For whom: the man who doesn't need others' approval. For an evening that begins late and ends who knows when.
&nbsp;
The period in the name isn't a typo. It's part of the intonation. Simply: "Monsieur." And everything is immediately clear! The opening notes are rum and mandarin&mdash;a sharp, alcoholic, citrusy punch, as if the ingredients were mixed in a glass just before serving. Then comes patchouli, warming it like a second jacket over the first. Spices and smoky incense add body in the middle. The base is anchored by musk and resins&mdash;it's a long game. Interestingly, this is one of the few fragrances in the collection that Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle openly positions as masculine&mdash;in a house that eschews gender labels. The masculinity here is so unconditional.

Carlos Benaim
&nbsp;
A native of Morocco with Spanish roots, working at IFF, Bena&iuml;m is one of the most geographically and culturally multidimensional perfumers of his generation. A minimalist perfumer, he takes a very simple idea and transforms it into a scent that seems absolutely obvious, yet no one has thought of it before. Bvlgari Jasmin Noir, Calvin Klein Eternity, and Viktor &amp; Rolf Flowerbomb&mdash;his portfolio includes scents that have become iconic for decades.

Туалетная вода Eau de Magnolia

Eau de Magnolia, 2014
&nbsp;
Who it's for: A woody-floral composition for spring and early summer, for those seeking a delicate, everyday scent without heaviness.
&nbsp;
Magnolia is one of the most difficult flowers to create in perfumery. The natural extract is extremely rare, its cost is enormous, and working with it on an industrial scale is virtually impossible. Therefore, in perfumery, magnolia is almost always a reconstruction, not an exact replica. This makes it an even more interesting challenge for the nose! Benaim took on this challenge in his own way&mdash;he created a fragrance not about the scent of magnolia, but about the associations it evokes. Cleanliness, morning, a white shirt, an open window onto a garden. A light burst of citrus opens the composition&mdash;bergamot, lemon, and grapefruit. Then comes the magnolia itself: creamy, slightly powdery, with hints of peach and apricot. Oakmoss and patchouli in the base provide an unexpected earthy warmth&mdash;like wet bark under a tree in bloom.
&nbsp;

Парфюмерная вода Dawn, 100 мл

Dawn, 2018
&nbsp;
Who it's for: A leathery, oriental composition for collectors and connoisseurs of Middle Eastern perfumery tradition.
&nbsp;
Dawn is part of the Desert Gems collection, created as a perfume homage to Middle Eastern tradition. Benaim personally commissioned Malle to create this fragrance&mdash;he wanted to convey spirituality. A moment of grace, inner contemplation, morning prayer. The opening is unexpectedly cool and refreshing: pepper and rose create a lightness, almost weightlessness. Then incense takes over&mdash;resinous, ecclesiastical. Oud in the base evokes the scent of wood that has burned all night. This is one of the most precious fragrances in the collection. Luxury at the molecular level.

Edmond Roudnitska
A name spoken with awe and reverence in the industry, Roudnitska was one of the greatest perfumers of the 20th century, the creator of Dior Diorissimo, Femme de Rochas, and Eau Sauvage for Dior. He died in 1996, but his presence in the Fr&eacute;d&eacute;ric Malle collection is not an archival "tincture" but a living statement. Malle received a single, farewell fragrance from Edmond Roudnitska's widow, Th&eacute;r&egrave;se: it had been kept in the perfumer's personal archive since the 1950s and was never sold. The only woman in the world permitted to wear it was Th&eacute;r&egrave;se herself.

Духи Le Parfum De Therese, 100 мл

Le Parfum de Therese, 2000
For those who appreciate history. One of the most intellectual bottles in the Frederic Malle collection.
A scent-letter, written by a caring husband to his loving wife in the post-war years&mdash;when perfumery was still a unique and personal craft, not a commercial enterprise. Frederic Malle called it a "prophetic masterpiece," half a century ahead of its time. The melon and cucumber opening sound almost scandalous for its era: fruity notes were not used so openly back then. Rose and jasmine follow, elegant and classic, as if deliberately soothing after the bold opening. Vetiver and woods in the base provide dryness and restraint.

Dominique Ropion
De facto "perfumer-in-residence" at Fr&eacute;d&eacute;ric Malle, he has created the majority of the house's fragrances. A graduate of the Roure Bertrand Dupont school in Grasse and a student of master perfumer Jean-Louis Cieuzac, he works equally masterfully with commercial and niche products. His signature scent is maximalism and excess. He's not afraid to overload a formula because he knows when to stop.

Парфюмерная вода Une Fleur de Cassie, 100 мл

Une Fleur de Cassie, 2000
For: lovers of complex floral compositions in autumn and winter
It was with this fragrance that Ropion began his collaboration with Male in 2000&mdash;and immediately established his special status. Une Fleur de Cassie is still considered one of the most complex floral fragrances of the last 25 years. Cassia is an exotic acacia, a flower with an incredibly heavy, almost obscene scent. It is simultaneously pollen, honeyed, and animalic. It's stifling to stand near. Ropion took this complex material and didn't soften it... he intensified it! The fragrance opens with an aldehyde burst that would have captivated people in the 1920s. Cassia and mimosa unfold next: dense, honeyed, with that animalic sweetness that cannot be refined, only embraced. Jasmine adds depth to the heart. The base is long and warm: sandalwood, vanilla, musk - like skin warmed by the sun.

Парфюмерная вода Vetiver Extraordinaire, 50 мл

Vetiver Extraordinaire, 2002
Who it's for: a woody, oriental masculine composition for luxuriously furnished offices and negotiations on the fate of the world
Vetiver is a grass with a deep root system. Essentially, its scent is the scent of the earth itself: damp, green, with mineral undertones. Most perfumers tame it. Ropion decided otherwise. Creating the composition took 569 attempts and 16 months of work. The concentration of Haitian vetiver in the formula is incredible! Around 25%, while the norm in perfumery is no more than 8%. Hence the extraordinary name. The opening notes of Vetiver Extraordinaire are very sharp, an aggressive citrusy burst: bergamot and bitter orange with pink pepper. Then the vetiver takes center stage and never relinquishes its leading role. Raw, earthy. It's hard to master, but the five woody base notes&mdash;cashmeran, cedar, sandalwood, oakmoss, and musk&mdash;can help. This is a fragrance for a man who doesn't need explanations about good taste.

Парфюмерная вода Carnal Flower Perfume, 100 мл

Carnal Flower, 2005
For: bold and sensual lovers of white flowers. For a hot evening with a sequel.
Family legend has it that Fr&eacute;d&eacute;ric Malle wanted a fragrance for the House collection inspired by his aunt, actress Candice Bergen. She played the lead female role in the film Carnal Knowledge, starring Jack Nicholson. Hence the name Carnal Flower&mdash;a "carnal flower" built on olfactory associations with drama. The composition is built around a carnal rose&mdash;not a rose, but tuberose. A flower that in some cultures was forbidden for young women to smell after sunset, as its scent was considered too revealing and indecent. Ropion created this fragrance in 690 iterations (a record for Fr&eacute;d&eacute;ric Malle!)&mdash;Malle personally approved each version. The tuberose here is in all its animalic fullness: coconutty, creamy, with a milky undertone. Eucalyptus and melon in the opening offer an unexpected green freshness&mdash;like a stem yet uncut from the bush. Jasmine and ylang-ylang in the heart enhance the floral chorus. And the white musk base lingers on the skin. Maximalist Dominique Ropion says this is the only fragrance where he was truly afraid to cross the line&mdash;and that's precisely why he did.

Парфюмерная вода Geranium Pour Monsieur, 50 мл

Geranium Pour Monsieur, 2009
For those who love fresh, mentholated Sunday morning scents with a spicy finish.
Fr&eacute;d&eacute;ric Malle got the idea for this fragrance from the scent of Anterenea, a luxurious Marseille soap from his childhood. He asked Dominique Ropion to create his own take on this memorable and sentimental memory. And the perfumer executed it masterfully! The fragrance opens with notes of mint and anise. Following is Chinese geranium, the name suggests, with pink-spicy undertones. Not a flower in a vase, but a stem fresh from the bush. Clove and cinnamon in the heart add warmth. The base is long-lasting and subtle: sandalwood, benzoin, incense, and ambroxan. You only smell them up close.

Парфюмерная вода Portrait Of A Lady Perfume, 100 мл

Portrait of a Lady, 2010
Who it's for: a rich, chypre-rose composition&mdash;the fashion equivalent of velvet.
The product's name alludes to Henry James's novel, the story of Isabel Archer, a woman who chooses freedom and pays the ultimate price for it. The fragrance is similar: the rose here isn't a noblewoman's adornment, but a manifestation of character. Rose, carnation, blackcurrant, and raspberry form a red, spicy, berry-like opening. Then, Turkish rose meets incense and patchouli in the heart. A base of amber, benzoin, and musk lingers on the skin for hours. Portrait of a Lady is one of Frederic Malle's top three best-selling fragrances and regularly appears on lists of the best women's fragrances of the decade. (Meanwhile, men wear it with equal enthusiasm.)

Парфюмерная вода Cologne Indelebile

Cologne Indelebile, 2015
For those who love fresh citrus-floral scents but are tired of their short-lived nature.
A cologne that doesn't evaporate. The name itself is an oxymoron: cologne is by nature volatile and fleeting. Ropion decided to stabilize it and linger on the skin longer. Lemon, bergamot, rosemary, and orange blossom make for a classic citrus formula. But within the first few minutes, white musk bursts into the mix&mdash;both innocent and seductive. It's this musk that allows the citrus notes to linger. Meanwhile, narcissus adds an unexpected floral touch. The fragrance lingers on the skin for an incredibly (even indecently) long time for its genre, but you'll definitely not get tired of it. We wear it for hours on end; it requires no refreshment.

Парфюмерная вода Hope

Hope, 2024
For: connoisseurs of oud fragrances in the Arabian tradition and property owners in the Middle East
"Hope" is Ropion's third work in the unique Desert Gems series. On the bottle, the sacred word is written in Arabic script. Its philosophical embodiment is endless sand dunes and the majestic light emanating from them. The fragrance is dense, even balsamic, from the first spray. The oud here is resinous, rounded, and slightly sweet. Amber and warm spices add even greater depth and a slow, enveloping development. You gradually fall into this mirage, a dream, and fall under its spell. The base is musk and wood, lingering the scent on the skin even after a long journey. For those who believe in the power of scent as a ritual.

Edouard Flechier
The man without whom Poison for Dior would not have been possible. Flechier, a nose who grew up in Grasse, is a master of grand, polyphonic, and unapologetically expressive fragrances. Malle met him during his time as a consultant and called him one of the "last representatives of the great French school of perfumery"&mdash;one that was unafraid to be excessive.&nbsp;

Парфюмерная вода Lys Mediterranee, 100 мл

Lys Mediterranee, 2000
For those who like their scent to feel like an extension of the beautiful weather on vacation
Lily of the Mediterranean&mdash;it sounds like the title of a painting painted outdoors. Fl&eacute;chier truly created this fragrance as a landscape: salty air, white flowers in the breeze, the space between the shore and the garden. The lily here doesn't give you a headache; it's transparent, almost watery. Marine accords and green notes give it context: this flower grows by the water, not in a vase. Musk and cedar in the base add a bodily warmth&mdash;without them, the Mediterranean lightness would instantly evaporate. Fl&eacute;chier said he wanted to capture not the flower itself, but the air around it&mdash;the way the lily's scent changes when near the sea. And he succeeded!

Парфюмерная вода Rose Tonnerre

Rose Tonnerre (formerly Une Rose), 2003
For those who want to wear a rose without sweetness or pretentiousness
Thunder and lightning! A delicate rose becomes a rebel. In 2021, the fragrance was renamed&mdash;the formula remained unchanged, but the name on the bottle finally matched its contents. Here, the rose is dark and earthy from the very first second. Maestro Fl&eacute;chier took Turkish rose absolute in a seemingly insane concentration and surrounded it with a truffle accord&mdash;patchouli, vetiver, and castoreum. It is the truffle that makes the fragrance unlike any other rose. It adds context, a picture&mdash;roots, dirt, a forest after a torrential rain. Honey and wine notes in the opening&mdash;like a glass of red placed next to a bouquet. Malle called Rose Tonnerre "Fl&eacute;chier's last great fragrance." The fragrance was created seventeen years before the perfumer's death, but even then there was something definitive about it.

Jean-Claude Ellena
A poet of minimalism. Formerly the exclusive nose of Herm&egrave;s, he created Terre d'Hermes, Un Jardin sur le Nil, and Declaration for Cartier. His method is not to add, but to subtract. He works with a minimal number of ingredients, mastering each one to the utmost precision. Malle calls him a watercolorist in a world where everyone else paints in oils. He has created six fragrances for Fr&eacute;d&eacute;ric Malle.

Парфюмерная вода Angeliques Sous la Pluie, 100 мл

Angeliques Sous la Pluie, 2000
For: meditative minimalists and romantics
"Angelica in the Rain." Another rainy composition in Fr&eacute;d&eacute;ric Malle's portfolio. Angelica (angelica) is a herb with a spicy, green, and slightly aniseed, "medicinal" scent, rarely used as a central note. Ellena broke the rules and created a fragrance about a specific moment: the scent he smelled after rain in the countryside. Here, angelica unfolds not as a flower, but as the scent of a broken stem. Juniper and citrus add bitterness and coolness. The official release says this scent "can be compared to the touch of a forest creature on your skin."

Одеколон Cologne Bigarade, 100 мл

Cologne Bigarade, 2001
Who: A citrusy, bitter-orange unisex composition, which Catherine Deneuve and Christian Louboutin both declared their love for.
Bigarad is a bitter orange, the peel of which yields some of the finest citrus notes in perfumery. Ellena, in keeping with her tradition, took it as a singular theme and wrote variations around it. The opening is sharp and juicy&mdash;a bitter orange in all its tartness. Rose and grass in the heart provide a light floral undertone. The base is dry: cedar, musk, and hay. The scent evokes a morning in a Proven&ccedil;al garden&mdash;clear and reassuring. The first cologne in the Fr&eacute;d&eacute;ric Malle portfolio.

Туалетная вода Bigarade Concentree Perfume, 50 мл

Bigarade Concentree, 2002
For those who love Cologne Bigarade but aren't ready to accept its frivolity.
If Cologne Bigarade is a pencil sketch, then Bigarade Concentree is an oil painting of the same subject. Jean-Claude Ellena tested various variations and decided that increasing the concentration from 4 to 12.5% ​​would create a highly unusual and interesting combination. Bitter orange with mandarin, grapefruit, and tea is complex and multifaceted. The heart is rose, caraway, and honeysuckle. Hay, grass, and tonka bean in the base create a pastoral finish&mdash;dry, sunny, and pensive. The two Bigarade fragrances exist in the collection as a diptych. It's best to try them on the same day, on different wrists.

Туалетная вода L'eau D'hiver

L'Eau d'Hiver, 2003
For: introverts
"Winter water." Not heavy and warming, as is typical in the cold season, but quiet and transparent, like the air over an unfrozen river in January. The bergamot in the opening is almost imperceptible&mdash;just freshness, without citrus aggression. Heliotrope and hawthorn in the heart impart a powdery sweetness, botanical (not confectionary)&mdash;like the scent of a herbarium that hasn't been opened in a long time. The musk in the base dissolves on the skin, leaving no trace&mdash;only the feeling of having just smelled something. Interestingly, L'Eau d'Hiver is one of Frederic Malle's best-selling fragrances, although by all the laws of the genre it should be a niche within a niche.

Парфюмерная вода Rose & Cuir

Rose &amp; Cuir, 2019
For those with refined taste and high ambitions
Rose and leather are a classic combination. Ellena approached it with characteristic economy: a minimum of notes, maximum precision. This is her first project since completing her exclusive contract with Herm&egrave;s, and a different tone is already evident. Geranium, blackcurrant, and Sichuan pepper open the fragrance with a green and spicy edge. The heart combines rose and leather, a single accord, without any order. Vetiver and cedar in the base create a dry, slightly smoky finish. The fragrance's richness is achieved through the use of isobutyl quinoline, a now-forgotten component first synthesized in the early 20th century and actively used by perfumers in the 1950s to create bold leather scents.

Парфюмерная вода Heaven can Wait, 50 мл

Heaven Can Wait, 2023
For: lovers of spicy and iris-based fragrances with a unisex feel
"Heaven Can Wait" is the name not only of a perfume but also of the 1978 film of the same name starring Warren Beatty.
Fr&eacute;d&eacute;ric Malle and Jean-Claude Ellena worked on the fragrance during the pandemic, when they rewatched a ton of movies. This fantasy melodrama tells the story of a man who, by mistake, arrives in heaven "early" and longs for the warmth of human relationships. At the same time, Ellena created Heaven Can Wait as a tribute to Edmond Roudnitske, a great perfumer and friend. Hence its aristocratic and seductive Parisian aroma. Clove, pepper, ambrette, and carrot seed are complemented by the refined beauty of iris. Vetiver brings structure and vivacity, while peach and prune provide a comfortable roundness. The notes don't cut off or stick out separately, but flow smoothly into each other.

Julien Rasquinet
A perfumer with an unexpected biography. His passion for perfumery arose purely by chance. His father introduced him to Pierre Bourdon at the airport, who hired him as his final apprentice. Three years of training, then four years in Dubai and a stint at IFF. A background that allowed Rasquinet to choose his specialization&mdash;the creation of contemporary Middle Eastern fragrances.

Парфюмерная вода The Moon

The Moon, 2019
For those who love intense oud fragrances for special occasions
In Arabic culture, "my Moon" is a term of endearment for a loved one, an expression of admiration for her beauty, and a sign of undying devotion. The fragrance speaks precisely of this tradition: warm, all-consuming, and far removed from Western restraint. Raspberry, lychee, and saffron open the fragrance&mdash;fruity and spicy, unexpected for oud compositions. Turkish rose and incense penetrate the heart. Oud, leather, and amber in the base create a dark, lingering finish. Rasquinet was inspired by the traditions of Arabic hospitality and the aromas of hookah&mdash;red berries and resins combined.

Maurice Roucel
This chemist from Normandy began his career in the industry as a chromatography technician at Chanel's lab in 1973, under the guidance of Henri Robert. A self-taught man who became a master. 24 Faubourg for Herm&egrave;s, Insolence for Guerlain, Envy for Gucci&mdash;his portfolio includes compositions familiar to consumers for decades. His fragrances for Fr&eacute;d&eacute;ric Malle are a different story entirely: far more intimate, without compromising on mass appeal.

Парфюмерная вода Musc Ravageur

Musc Ravageur, 2000
For whom: a musky-vanilla, sensual composition for those who perceive perfume as a weapon of seduction.
Roussel created "devastating musk" as a perfumed version of the sexual attraction between a man and a woman; "an act of seduction and generosity." Bergamot and lavender open with a brief, illusory freshness. Then, sharp, spicy notes quickly emerge: clove, cinnamon, and nutmeg. Vanilla and amber in the base add an "edible" quality to the scent. Malle asked Roussel to make only minor adjustments to the original formula. This is one of the rare cases where a fragrance came out almost exactly as originally conceived.

Парфюмерная вода Dans Tes Bras, 100 мл

Dans Tes Bras, 2008
For those who want to feel the strong embrace of another person through fragrance. A perfume that alleviates feelings of loneliness. One of the most versatile, it works in any season and on any skin tone.
Maurice Roussel considers this fragrance his best work&mdash;more complex than his previous Musc Ravageur. The challenge was not easy&mdash;building a composition around a single ingredient: cashmeran. This synthetic molecule has a highly complex and difficult-to-describe scent. It is simultaneously woody, spicy, slightly fruity, musky, and cashmere-like (hence the name). It is very enveloping. Most perfumers use it in small doses as a supporting element. Roussel made it the star. In Dans Tes Bras, it is surrounded by bergamot, clove, piquant violet, and sandalwood. The final formula was the result of the perfumer's tenacity&mdash;Dans Tes Bras was a great challenge. But the time and nerves were worth it.

Парфюмерная вода Uncut Gem

Uncut Gem, 2022
For: lovers of angular, niche, and deliberately uncommercial fragrances
It's always fascinating to discover what compositions great perfumers use themselves. Uncut Gem is one of these personal examples, created by Roussel for himself. He later decided to share it with the world. More precisely, with men as straightforward and uncompromising as himself. Ginger, bergamot, and angelica are its first sparks. Vetiver and incense in the heart add fuel to the fire and smoky, earthy depth. The finish builds on ambrocinide, a powerful synthetic molecule with an almost primal resonance.

Michel Roudnitska
Edmond Roudnitska's son and heir to a great name. But far from being an imitator, Michel has developed his own style, far removed from his father's restrained elegance. He founded his own house, Parfums Micha&euml;l Roudnitska, and has worked with Acqua di Parma and Herm&egrave;s.

Парфюмерная вода Noir Epices, 100 мл

Noir Epices, 2000
For those who appreciate olfactory mysticism
For his "black spices," Roudnitska Jr. selected the most complex spices&mdash;cloves, nutmeg, pepper, and saffron. How can one avoid being known as a pastry chef with such a "gastronomic" selection? It's like going to an oriental bazaar and miraculously capturing its sharp, lively, dusty, woody aroma and atmosphere in a bottle. Floral notes in the heart add unexpected softness without relieving tension. Wood, resins, and musk in the base maintain a long, heavy hold.

Olivia Giacobetti
One of the most poetic noses. Giacobetti is a perfumer who knows how to work with air: her scents are always slightly ephemeral, unfinished, and hazy, as if they lack a clear outline. She has created fragrances for L'Artisan Parfumeur, Diptyque, and Herm&egrave;s&mdash;each time finding something elusive in familiar materials.

Парфюмерная вода En Passant

En Passant, 2000
For those who don't like to be intrusive
The French expression "en passant" is both a chess term and a common idiom. It's a special move: you can capture an opponent's pawn that just passed you by, but only on the very next move, otherwise the moment is lost forever. In everyday life, it's simply "in passing," "as you pass." Accidentally, without intention. Giacobetti combined both meanings in a single bottle: the scent of lilac, caught in the side of your nose as you passed a flowering bush. You didn't stop, didn't inhale it intentionally&mdash;you just smelled it and moved on. The damp air and green notes create the sensation that the flowers have just been wet by rain. Cucumber adds a cool, almost edible freshness. White musk and cedar in the base give the fragrance structure and longevity. Interestingly, there's no such thing as a natural lilac extract. It defies traditional extraction&mdash;its flowers are so delicate that any extraction method destroys or alters the scent beyond recognition. Giacobetti has created a reconstruction so precise that it deceives even experienced perfumers.

Pierre Bourdon
A legend! Cool Water created an entire genre for Davidoff in 1988&mdash;aquatic fragrances that were imitated for the next thirty years. Kouros, Tuscany per Uomo, and Femme de Rochas&mdash;his portfolio includes products that have become cultural artifacts and time markers. For Fr&eacute;d&eacute;ric Malle, he created fragrances that are polar opposites in character.

Парфюмерная вода Iris Poudre Perfume

Iris Poudre, 2000
For: fans of classic powdery perfumery in the spirit of the Golden Age
Bourdon took one of the noblest and simultaneously most complex perfumery materials&mdash;iris&mdash;and placed it in a high-class context: aldehydes, powder, and warm musk. Aldehydes at the beginning provide a characteristic shimmering retro note. Ylang-ylang and clove add floral and spicy depth. Vanilla, amber, and sandalwood in the base ensure a long-lasting scent. It's no coincidence that Iris Poudre is often compared to Chanel No. 5. Bourdon studied under Henri Robert, the creator of several iconic Chanel fragrances. And Iris Poudre is his personal dialogue with this tradition.

Парфюмерная вода French Lover, 50 мл

French Lover, 2007
For those looking for a foolproof men's fragrance, regardless of season or age
The name is provocative, but the scent itself is not. Bourdon created it for a man who doesn't wear perfume in the traditional sense: he just smells good, and that's enough. Galbanum, juniper, and pepper provide a vegetal, almost forest-like prologue. Incense and cedar in the heart add resinous depth. Vetiver, oakmoss, and white musk in the base provide a long, earthy finish. It's a blend of skin and clothing on the move in the fresh air.

Ralf Schwieger
A German in Paris&mdash;and that's important. Schwieger brought to Fr&eacute;d&eacute;ric Malle the perspective of someone raised in a different perfume culture&mdash;more analytical, less romantic. He worked with Man&eacute;, created fragrances for Tommy Hilfiger and Davidoff&mdash;but it was at Fr&eacute;d&eacute;ric Malle that he truly expressed what he wanted to say, in a single bottle.

Парфюмерная вода Lipstick Rose Perfume, 100 мл

Lipstick Rose, 2000
For: all beauty industry enthusiasts
The scent of lipstick. Not a metaphor, but a literal rendering. Schwieger deconstructed the chemistry of cosmetics and recreated it as a fragrance. A toy-like perfume from the powder category. Rose and violet at the heart&mdash;a floral duet woven into cosmetics. Vanilla, sandalwood, and white musk at the base&mdash;the trace of a kiss. When Schwieger presented the concept, many considered it too literal and boring. Mal insisted. And created a bestseller! A scent evocative of the lipstick of a Hollywood diva touching up her makeup in front of the mirror.

Sophia Grojsman
A Belarusian-American nose who spent her entire career at IFF, Grojsman is the creator of Tresor for Lanc&ocirc;me, Eternity for Calvin Klein, and Paris for YSL. Her signature scents are large, floral-musky accords.

Туалетная вода Outrageous Perfume, 100 мл

Outrageous, 2007
For whom: Frederic himself describes it best: the scent of "pure sexuality."
Outrageous! For Grosman, this fragrance was a challenge. She's known for heavy feminine compositions, but here she decided to play with lightness. The result is exciting and thrilling. Outrageous recreates a night in Rio: the festive air on the beach, the rhythm of samba, the scent of caipirinha. An explosion of bergamot, mandarin, and green apple against a clean backdrop of cinnamon, musk, and ambroxan. For those who appreciate paradoxes in perfumery.

The ultimate guide to Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle perfumes

Latest news

Autumn perfume wardrobe: which fragrances to choose for the new season

Tom Ford: New Summer Makeup Collection

Розыгрыш эксклюзивного бокса Creed в Code de Vie Keruen Astana